At the moment I’m trying to walk everywhere I go (within feasible distance). It saves me money and it’s part of a health regime to get my hinny figure back after a month of junk food whilst I was teacher training a couple of months ago.
The one thing you will find when you walk anywhere for longer than five minutes is the sheer variety of encounters that are simply lost when travelling by car. In a car it’s a sealed zone, a small pocket of vacuum packed self, buffered from the real world as you drive past fleeting images that become remote and objective – like images on a TV screen.
Travelling by foot is an entirely different affair.
For a start there’s the weather, which, if you’re in Scotland, is very much a changeable experience. Yesterday the skies were a solid block of steel grey with driving rain, which at some points resembled what my grandmother would have called ’stair rods coming down sideways’. Today is warm, golden autumn sunshine – with billowing winds that whip and buffet you – so much so that it’s a battle at times to walk in a straight line. Leaves, twigs, indeed the odd branch seem encouraged to loosen from trees, and flags not so much wave in the breeze as rattle like staccato gun fire.
Then the encounters.
Trekking down via the Grassmarket and reaching the end of what is affectionately called by the locals ‘the pubic triangle’ (where bars are largely populated by pole dancers and windows are firmly blacked out), two gentlemen reeled precariously in the centre of the pavement, and were in a dainty, dancily kind of way, holding each other up. It was like watching an unintended Argentinian Tango, lurching unexpectedly down then up, tenacious fingers clasped on each others shoulders as they wavered in the feisty breeze. Negotiating the tango twosome looked like an intriguing challenge against the busy road. Pulling my brolly in against the wind and rain, I wryly smiled as I approached. Both were dressed in traditional kilts, and cutaway jackets and I don’t doubt they were ex-regiment. Right now they were ex-scotch bottle.
“Oooph” grins one, looking up from the latest lurch, “heezit raining under therrre?” pointing at my brolly embattled against sideways rain. I laughed and said it was as I passed them by. Because really, it was.
I wheel around the corner, cross the road, and a hulking mass is shambling its way down towards me. Down and out, tattered rags criss-crossed this bear of a man with an unkempt shaggy grey-yellow-white mane of hair: not so much clothes as makeshift wrap around pieces of cloth all bound around him fluttering like dismal miniature bunting. His figure was crooked, as if someone had snapped him two and left him to drag himself along the street, a large amorphous industrial bin bag in tow. I stepped aside to make room on the small pavement – eyes connected for an unspoken moment, distant and disconnected, before humping on down the road. Another classic case of social service failure and broken will.
Five more minutes down the road and a large cargo van stands with the back screen drawn high. Coming towards me at speed is a young man in blue overalls, weighted under the full mass of a single bed mattress. Make or break. If this guy stops, the mattress is gonna keep going. Stepping aside for a second time I watched in vague admiration as this man-mattress-made-one wheeled around the corner in a smooth manoeuvre. I eyed the back of the van and noticed four more similar mattresses. By the end of the day that guy was going to have a seriously sore neck.
Home leg: long trek past a large building site, five storeys high. More flats built in a nouveau neo-seventies brown brick and ‘designer’ chrome and glass finish. The air is heady with the smell of new tarmac and damp dust. Bargain basement designer blocks that will look like rain stained ghetto land in ten years time.
“Hoooooy!” …drifts across the rising howl of wind and plastic bag rattle and flutter.
“Heeeyyyooooooyyyy!!!”
Raising my head up from its wind resistant 45 degree angle, I realise there’s no-one around this stretch except me. I look over my shoulder. No-one. I look up and sure enough, four storeys up, there’s the cocky builder in cheery yellow safety helmet and smart arse grin, winking and waving at me. I give him a you’re too young and I’m old enough to be your mum look. Still doesn’t stop him grinning, having bagged yet another gal’s attention.
I wonder what his tally will be by the end of the day.
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